Magical, Mysterious, Majestic…Marrakesh!

Morning Vegetable market outside the gates of the Medina, Marrakesh.

I felt a bit of alliteration was called for when I started thinking of Marrakesh. The adjectives I used are all correct…perhaps not all the time or in every corner of the city but overall it is a special place and they apply. My friend Moira Stewart and I headed down to Marrakesh on the train from Fes and it was an excellent day to be traveling across the country into the foothills of the Atlas mountains. Although, I was humming to myself the old Crosby, Stills and Nash song…Marrakesh Express we were not on the fabled Marrakesh Express as that train leaves from Casablanca and travels overnight. Somehow Moria and I bought a first class ticket but did not realize it and sat in a second class car until the AC broke down. Once we realized our mistake we were delighted to move forward even though it meant dragging all our luggage from one end of the train to the other with everyone looking at us like we were fools. Ahhhh the pitfalls of travel. Once we were in our first class cabin with cool air flowing once again it was a delightful trip. Trains go all over the country and are a reasonable , efficient way to get around.

A grocery inside the Medina, Marrakesh

Marrakesh is a city of both old and new and that is part of its charm. On one side of the coin you have the Medina a densely packed walled in Medieval city dating back to the Berber Empire. This is the heart of the city and is filled with mosques, palaces and gardens as well as being a center for Moroccan traditions..Its maze like alleyways are alive with business- thriving souks (market places) sell traditional textiles, pottery, leather goods and jewelry. After Fes I was delighted with the Medina here in Marrakesh…the alleys were wider, lighter and easier to navigate. The merchants were less combative and there were far fewer touts demanding to accompany you on your walk. Well, at least that is the way it seemed to me.

Jemaa El-Fna Square at the heart of the Medina

Founded in 1062 AD Marrakesh began to flourish in the 12th century and rapidly became the trading, religious and cultural center of the region. Today it is one of the busiest cities in Africa and with a population of 930,000 it serves as a major economic center and a popular tourist destination. Once out of the Medina you see the other side of the coin…a new train station, wide boulevards, high-rise apartment blocks, modern shopping centers filled with high end brand names. The city has an abundance of 5 star hotels and resorts as well as first class restaurants. Moira and I splurged on a couple of upscale dinners in the Gueliz District…one French, one Italian…both were moderately expensive but the cost was justified by the quality of the meal and the ambiance. We stayed in a riad (traditional bed & breakfast) in the Medina but the Gueliz area is a quick cab ride away.

Average residential street in the Medina

On the edge of the Medina is Jemaa el-Fna Square! Dating to the 12th century it is the epicenter for tourist visiting Marrakesh. During the day is is filled with orange juice sellers, snake charmers, water sellers and stalls of leather goods. Edged with souks, restaurants, hotels and terrace cafes…which are a great place to hang out and watch the progression of change in the square as the day moves on. In the afternoon storytellers arrive (only in Arabic or Berber), magicians, peddlers or an Imam preaching to a crowd and doing a call to prayer. As the sun sets the square is filled with food stalls and what was mildly crowded in now heaving till the early morning hours.

Yves Saint Laurent in Jemaa el-Fna Square. Photo by Reginald Gray

The city has always attracted celebrities…artist politicians, musicians, fashion designers and movie stars. Winston Churchill came here to paint from the balcony of his room at the Mamounia Hotel in the 40”s and 50’s. Alfred Hitchcock and Marlena Dietrick came to make movies. But when Yves Saint Laurent came to Marrakesh in 1966 and stayed it really put the place on the map for the Jet Set. His parties and friends added glitter and glamour to this ancient city. It was YSL that brought me in part to visit Marrakesh. In 2017 a new YSL Museum was opened and I wanted to see the architecture and the collection.

No infidels allowed at the entrance to a mosque in the Medina

It is well worth the visit and consist of two parts…Majorelle Gardens and the new museum with its fashion collection and exhibits. Majorelle Gardens is a delight. The 2.5 acre property once the home of French artist Jacques Majorelle who designed the project and lived here from 1923 – 1950. Bought by YSL in 1980 the gardens and Cubist Villa in the center were painstakingly restored. The Villa painted a vibrant cobalt blue (bleu majorelle -patented by the artist in 1931) houses the Berber Museum and a Islamic Art Museum of Marrakesh. Both are excellent and worth the visit. The garden unlike anything I have visited before, is filled with palm, cacti, Bougainvillea dripping with flowers fountains and meandering paths. Everywhere is color…bold, vibrant, electric colors on fountains, buildings, walls and pottery. If you are a color person then this use of primary colors and hues from the opposite sides of the color wheel makes this a must see for you. To get there it is an easy walk from the Medina through one of the old gates and across an open air market. As always opportunities for photos abound.

Water Lilly pond at Majorelle Garden

Leaving the garden it is time to go next door to the YSL Museum. The building designed by Studio KO was most interesting. Constructed of brick with a mix of strait and curved lines, smooth and textured surfaces, it mirrors the style and techniques YSL used in the construction of his couture garments. The interior stands in stark contrast…sleek, smooth, radiant marble surfaces and minimal adornment. The galleries offers a overview of his styles and designs from the beginning to the end of his career as well as temporary exhibits. There is also a elegant restaurant for a lunch or coffee and desert.

Brickwork at the new YSL Museum Marrakesh.

Much of our time was spent wandering the narrow alleys of the Medina looking and occasionally buying. Well, Moira was buying and I was looking. I still travel the world with my carry-on size bag which preclude me from buying anything that is not essential. If there is a purchase then something goes in the trash…a simple way to live albeit a bit restrictive. There are a large number clothing boutiques, and home stores offering a mix of modern takes on traditional design as well as Moroccan contemporary. Of course, there is the chance to pick up a Berber tribal rug or two for the house but they are so damn hard to fit in the carry-on bag.

Temporary show at the YSL Museum. Sculpture as Fashion

Mosque visits are prohibited but there are a few palaces that are open to the public. One we visited was “Bahia Palace” a 19th century grand palace on the edge of Jemaa el-Fna build by Is Moussa a Grand Vizier to the Sultan. Built in the middle of a two acre  gardens and built around marble courtyards and small gardens. It is worth a visit if you have an extra morning or afternoon to kill.

After panning Fez so completely in my last post I suffered a great deal of guilt. All of my friends wrote to say they were scratching Morocco off their list so perhaps this will give them a reason to reconsider. I think with time Morocco could grow on me so I don’t want dismiss it out of hand. Moving onto Tangiers in the next post. See you on the blog.

Motorbike repair in the Medina